PCW Day Nine

Haltwhistle to West Woodburn -  Thursday, 30th August

35 miles cycled

Failed to get away by 9:00...

Breakfasted at Jethro's in Haltwhistle. Not Dec's recommended venue, but that had a 20 minute waiting time!

Opposite we spied a real Army Surplus shop!

We were cold last night so David and I investigated.

Suitably kitted out with thermals and fleeces we take easy country lanes before Keith spots my panniers bouncing at a jaunty angle.

It turned out one of my rack mountings had fractured. This looked terminal. I'd been given it a mere 41 years ago by a friend and it had broken already!

I'll have to complain...

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A quick application of bungies is enough to allowed progress and an earlier than planned lunch at Once Brewed, after only 7 1/2 miles.

Half an hour cursing with a handful of cable ties, some bungees and a bit of bent wire affects a temporary repair.

Twice brewed, the pub at Once Brewed, is not only a pub that serves food but it brews its own beer and offers accommodation.

On the road again a 2:00. Oh dear.

I was really, really looking forward to this day's trip through Wark Forest. I remembered the almost surreal experience of a conifer plantation when I walked through here on the Pennine Way.

The famous 'Sycamore gap', as seen in 'Prince of Thieves'

Unfortunately every report of this section we found did not recommend it. Extensive forestry work had rendered the road almost impassable they said.

We also read that this section had been voted the worst of the entire Sustrans network. Bugger.

This sad news, Keith's experience with his road bike on the previous off road sections and the shortage of time gave us no choice but to take the fast B6318/B6320 road alternative to Bellingham.

Bellingham is where the much recommended (and longer) Coquetdale alternative starts, which of course we don't have the time for. Sigh.

The nice fast roller coaster roads mean we take a mere hour to cover 12 or so miles before we start to near Wark and hear a small volley of expletives from Keith...

...and another fractured rack mounting.

Another half an hour spent over the road from The Black Bull. There's a lot of Black Bull pubs around here...

Enjoying the journey

Sadly there's no time to investigate and we press on...

...until at 5:30 we reach Bellingham with its three campsites, two hostels and a whole rash of friendly, food serving pubs.

 We'd only cycled 27 miles. There was 77 miles of PCW to go and 2 days to do it in. We really should push on.

The only trouble is the next campsite is at Alwinton 22 miles away.

If we stay here we'll have to leave early. Something we've consistently failed to do.

We make a plan to wild camp at Raylees Common a further 8 or so miles away, leaving 37 miles to Wooler and 31 miles to Berwick.

Just before the wood is East Woodburn and a pub. We decided to stop for dinner and Keith asked a local cyclist where there may be a campsite. He phoned a few places before offering his front garden as a pitch!

Well, it's still a little short of hour target wood, but it's getting on for 7:00. Offers of tea and coffee and a shower, the use of the toilet overnight and more beverages in the morning are unresistible! We set up camp. His kids join us!

Keith repaid his outstanding kindness a little with a small Isle of Jura single malt and we invite him to join us as we left for dinner at the pub.

Stand up comedian and entertainer, and stand up bloke Dec O'Bell

Hmm, well that still leaves 47 miles to Wooler tomorrow...

Summery despatch:

"Major delays due to mechanical failures.

Tried to make up the miles but time ran out.

No campsite, now in someone's front garden at West Woodburn.

Natives very generous.

35 miles today.

Minor casualties.

Send money."

 

Signal from basecamp:

"beware of the natives.

Look what happened to Captain Cooke.

Seen any Sunbeam Rapiers on your travels?"

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